Wroclaw is a walkable city that offers many charms. My journey through different areas of Poland actually lasted longer than I anticipated, and I wasn’t quite sure what to expect by the time I landed here. Reading articles on the train ride from Warsaw informed me that I could see everything this place has to offer in a day or two, but I disagree. If you have the time, I definitely think it’s worth getting to know the city for a few days, because a Wroclaw trip is as unexpected as it is beautiful. Seriously, where else are you encouraged to go gnome hunting?
Like other post World War II cities in Poland (Warsaw jumps to mind), Wroclaw has been so expertly reconstructed that you will marvel at the jaw dropping architecture in Market Square. But, the level of detail extends far beyond the epicenter of tourism. Pretty much all of the surrounding streets for at least a ten block radius on the way to the university are impressive and worth a gander.
A few things to know for your first Wroclaw trip.
This city is brimming with surprisingly good cocktail bars. The further out you get from the center, the more bohemian the vibe becomes. If you are looking to specifically hang out in the Market Square, here is a guide that will help.
Additionally, locals tend to be friendly, and anyone I randomly asked for directions was helpful. However, that’s not to say that everything went smoothly.
It’s worth noting that street buskers in Market Square will pester you pretty hard for a few zloty, even if you are just taking in the majesty of the buildings and not watching their performances. It’s not ideal, but I did not feel unsafe, well not exactly. To be honest, I was mostly annoyed, but it crossed the line when a young man followed me for two blocks yelling about wanting payment for his skateboarding tricks. If he had not hassled me, I would have forked over a few zloty, but I have a strict no harassment policy, especially when I’m traveling alone.
Of everything worth doing on your Wroclaw trip, here are the 5 things that you can not skip.
5. Embrace the Market Square.
Founded in the 13thcentury, make sure to spend serious time walking around the Market Square. I realize that I previously referenced this spectacular feat of design, but my point is that this place warrants high praise. Seriously, believe the hype.
When the weather is nice, flower markets flood the city center. They were just starting to emerge when I visited. It was a shoulder season, so there wasn’t a ton of flora on display. But, it was easy to picture how the fresh blooms would bring the city to life.
Additionally, what I have seen described as a fountain by others online only spouts water intermittently. But, maybe that’s just what happened when I visited. Either way, it sits in the middle of Market Town, and you can walk through it. Constructed of what I assume is plexiglass in the shape of an abstract mountain or perhaps, a futuristic city, it’s really cool. Quite honestly, I’m not sure what the artist was going for, but it made an impression.
4. Walk around and take in the art.
This activity is pretty self-explanatory, but I was surprised by how many unique sculptures call this city home. During your Wroclaw trip, make a point to look for the street art that defines this city.
Here are some of my favorite pieces that I stumbled upon in Wroclaw:
- The 14 melancholy figures that appear to sink into the sidewalk reflect the Soviet oppression of the 1980’s.
- The famous Art Cafe Kalambur and Kalaczakra Gallery & Coffee echo a nonconformist vibe that transitions into a late night club with a gallery space for popup installations.
- The modern statue of a tragic looking horse and rider sculpted from iron rails projects an almost ghostly quality.
- The rusted metal rhinoceroses of a mother and baby sit in the middle of Market Square. Actually, they are a bit off to the side, and again something about this piece speaks to an air of abstract sadness.
- The bear with an extremely long tongue and creepy claws that look like fingers is attention grabbing. Don’t forget to touch the bear’s tongue for good luck.
3. Visit Cathedral Island.
Several churches, including St. Jean the Baptist call Cathedral Island home. This area is connected by a series of beautiful bridges that is popular with visitors. Fun fact, oil lamps in this area are still lit by hand every night. Quite the visual spectacle, the cobblestone streets here create an air of mystery for your Wroclaw trip.
2. Check out your reflection in a mirrored arch.
On Daliowa Island, the artist Oskar Zieta created what I can best define as a mirrored arc. Inflatable steel technology was used to construct an architectural showpiece that attracts young families, travelers, and pretty much everyone in between. I spent time walking around the area, and I really loved it.
1. Go gnome hunting!
Gnome hunting is by far my favorite activity, to be fair I think everyone who takes a Wroclaw trip agrees with this assessment. Seriously, I can’t think of anywhere else in the world that has enough of these merry munchkins hiding in plain sight to warrant such attention. And, since the city continues to commemorate the Orange Initiative (click here for more on that), the gnomes demonstrate the true spirit of the people from Wroclaw. They are committed to remembering the horrors of the past, but residents focus their energy on a hopeful future, in the cheekiest way possible
Just a word of caution regarding the slippery little dwarves. They really aren’t that easy to spot. You have to hunt them down. Worst case scenario is that you don’t find any, or worse, you trip over one of them.
Realize that a lot of these tiny troublemakers have been moved inside of private buildings that are not accessible to the public. Additionally, everyone in Wroclaw and online seems to know exactly how many of these little statues call this city home. Most people cite wildly different numbers, so my suggestion is to go and find out for yourself. Additionally, if you purchase the “official” map from the super cute gnome store, please know that it is not terribly accurate. It’s an adorable souvenir, but as I said, most of the gnomes have been purchased or moved throughout the city. So, don’t expect this to be a magical solution.
Keep your eyes open, because our little friends appear out of nowhere and vanish from view just as quickly. Happy hunting!
