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A Riad Marrakech Wonderland of Style in Morocco

Jamie Sharpe

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October 7, 2019

A Riad Marrakech Wonderland of Style in Morocco

In Morocco, L’Hotel Marrakech is a stunning riad in the medina that looks insanely beautiful. Dripping in savior faire, I was constantly pinching myself to make sure I wasn’t dreaming. See my thoughts on this riad Marrakech:

Riad logistics

If you arrive in the evening, you will be greeted by riad representatives in front of the mosque. A quick aside, if you are not Muslim, this is as close as you will ever get to going inside of a mosque in Morocco, unless you are in Casablanca. A porter transports your luggage in a giant cart which is painted in all sorts of fun colors.

The reality of being in the medina in Morocco hits you immediately, because you will be dodging bicyclists, motorcycles and stray animals. Locals will literally walk into you as you navigate the extremely narrow streets, so watch your step. The smells are a bit overwhelming at first, but I think it’s best to embrace the journey. Experiencing new cultures is the best part of travel.

The gentleman that guided me through what felt like a maze was pointing out directions to the right and left that are closed off at night after certain hours. He explained several ways to navigate the city. However, after a long day of travel, I retained absolutely nothing during this sprint to the riad.

I now understand all of the articles I read comparing Marrakech to a giant labyrinth where getting lost is half of the fun. It’s completely true!

Seriously, what’s it like staying at this riad?

L’Hotel Marrakech is a 19^th century riad that feels authentic, as in nothing is overdone. Every detail is gorgeous, and the property has a wow factor that isn’t easily found. There are only a few rooms here and all of them are suites.

The staff kindly gave me a choice in lodging. The room I selected was smaller than the original space I was assigned. However, it was a no-brainer on my end. I was immediately smitten with the outdoor black and white harlequin tiled floor.

Temperature

I was seriously impressed with the strength of the air conditioner in my room. Unfortunately, a lot of international hotels do not prioritize this feature. Given the intense heat in Marrakech, I was thrilled that my riad took this issue seriously.

Sleeping arrangements

I noticed that all of the beds have four posters with dreamy white fabric that cascades and conjures up images of Lawrence of Arabia. Climbing into such sumptuousness at night feels like a real treat. Incredibly luxurious, I would love to transition this experience from L’Hotel into my own life in New York City.

L’Hotel style

Every area of this riad is curated beautifully. It’s a bit like living inside of an exotic fashion ad. Overflowing with tricked out mirrors, ornate doors and striking candleholders, L’Hotel Marrakech is the type of place where you expect to see Hollywood royalty rounding the corner. Seriously, everywhere you look, you are greeted with the most wonderful eye candy.

All of the ceilings are distinct, whether they have dark beams or are coffered or arched. And I have to emphasize the hanging light fixtures that captured my imagination. Marrying form with function, they always made a statement.

Let’s get wet

Every element of the outdoor space is flawless. The pool isn’t huge, but it sure is sophisticated. Set against the backdrop of lush greenery, it feels like a space for those who are obsessed with beautiful things.

Dining at L’Hotel Marrakech

The riad does not serve alcohol by the pool or at the restaurant, as in there are no fancy mixed cocktails. However, L’Hotel’s restaurant, Tangiers (which I highly recommend) will accommodate. The staff will gladly pick up a bottle of wine or bubbly for you. Just make sure to ask them in advance.

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Noise levels

Keep in mind that riads in general tend to be airy. So, it’s best not to be too loud in your room. Otherwise, you might be broadcasting your conversation to the other guests. When I visited everyone was considerate, and I didn’t hear a peep wafting from anyone’s room.

Overall

L’Hotel Marrakech does not squander any opportunities to highlight bold yet refined panache at quite literally every turn. There is even a fountain with white roses in the middle of the courtyard. This riad is a special moment in time. It’s a glamorous escape that is achieved through thoughtful grace.

Please note, these are my opinions regarding L’Hotel Marrakech.

The 5 Best Restaurants for Lunch in Colmar France!

Jamie Sharpe

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October 5, 2019

58

The 5 Best Restaurants for Lunch in Colmar France!

This region is celebrated as much for its stunning half timbered architecture and Christmas Markets as it is for being a fashionable stop along the wine road in France. You’ll never run out of things to do in Colmar, and it’s clear that Colmar will never run short on delicious eateries. The only issue is narrowing down where you actually want to eat. Here are my picks for the 5 best lunch eateries in Colmar France.

5. Lunch in Colmar France: Au Chasseur.

Outside seating might be limited, but this place is ideal if you want an authentic experience. It feels considerably more French then some of its neighbors that lean a bit more towards the German side of the food spectrum. Alsatian charm makes this cozy eatery one of the best restaurants for lunch in Colmar. Au Chasseur is all about small town hospitality.

4. Le Schwendi

Located in the heart of Schwendi Square, this place has an incredible terrace. The portions run pretty large, and I loved my rosti. I think this is easily the best dish they do. Not particularly fancy, I thought everything was well executed. More German than French, this restaurant is typical of the region. Always delicious, Le Schwendi is one of the best restaurants for lunch in Colmar.

3. Lunch in Colmar: Brasserie de Tanneurs.

From the moment you enter, it’s pretty much impossible not to be charmed by the precious decor. Everyone here is particularly welcoming, and I felt like my waiter went out of his way to be friendly. Filled primarily with large groups, I do not get the feeling that they receive many solo travelers. So, it was refreshing that the staff was helpful instead of awkward.

The food is hearty and representative of the region. Fair pricing and good sized portions make this place among the best brasseries for lunch in Colmar.

2. Wistub de la Petite Venice.

If you want to dine in the heart of Little Venice, this place is your jam. In all honesty, if you are traveling alone, they are not terribly polite. The woman that seated me rolled her eyes. She made me feel uncomfortable as she muttered a few things under her breath. I thought about leaving, but I heard the food was good. After suiting up in my solo traveler invisible armor, I stayed.

Serving up delicious local fare, this eatery flawlessly executed Alsatian classics. Portions are sizable, and I think this place is a good choice for couples or groups. Aside from a killer location and clever decor, being one of the best restaurants for lunch in Colmar has made Wistub de la Petite Venice incredibly popular. To avoid disappointment, be sure to book well in advance. If you are alone, just don’t expect to befriend the staff.

1. Lunch in Colmar: Jadis et Gourmande.

Located in the heart of the restaurant section of Little Venice, Jadis et Gourmande is a solid lunch option. As with every eatery in Colmar (seriously, all of them), this restaurant fills up quickly. So, it is best to make a reservation.

All wooden inside, Jadis et Gourmande creates visual interest with bright red chairs that complement the red door. The restaurant isn’t taking itself too seriously, because teddy bears decorate nearly every nook available. There is even a wooden ladder that hangs overhead in the main dining room that the bears appear to be climbing. Additionally, a few stairs sit under a stone archway. I imagine the bears must be eyeing this spot as well.

The warm vibes are further heightened by tasty food. It’s not fancy, but it’s good. Everything is well seasoned and tastes delicious. Easily one of the best spots for lunch in Colmar, dine here and let one of the Gourmande teddy bears steal your heart.

Here’s why the Dublin Speakeasy Culture is Irresistible

Jamie Sharpe

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October 2, 2019

1

Here’s why the Dublin Speakeasy Culture is Irresistible

What is the Best Bar in Dublin?

It’s no secret that Ireland is famous for traditional pubs filled with locals drinking beer. However, things have been changing for a while now. Lately, it feels like the Dublin speakeasy culture is dominating upscale drinking. Here are my picks for the 5 essential bars that are pushing the mixology boundaries – I consider them the best bars in Dublin.

The original Dublin speakeasy: The Bar with No Name.

Denoted by a subtle carved snail hanging over 3 Fade Street, the entrance of this Dublin speakeasy feels more like you are walking into your friend’s apartment. The restored Victorian townhouse serves up cocktails amidst purposefully mismatched furniture and oversized photos. The sizable patio always has a good crowd, and the vibe here is particularly friendly.

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Liquor Rooms.

Just like the moniker says, several different rooms wind into each other at this speakeasy style bar. Located in the basement (don’t let that put you off), the decor feels like something out of the 1920’s with old fashioned wallpaper and an extremely clever menu.

The small dance floor doesn’t have a ton of room, but there are lots of different areas to hangout in this cavernous space. The cocktails are really something special. For staying consistently busy, the quality of their complex libations never wavers.

The classy Dublin speakeasy: Ferrier & Draper.

With stone walls downstairs, this Dublin speakeasy has a swanky vibe. Playing host to patrons in the Powerscourt Townhouse, a Georgian mansion on South William Street, the fashionable cocktails are just part of the fun. Spread out over three floors, each space is decidedly quirky with a hint of whimsical romance.

Peruke & Periwig.

Old school, this charming throwback has seriously inventive cocktails. Instead of being listed by alcohol, drinks are featured by the musical spirit they evoke (i.e., rock n’ roll or jazz). Oil paintings and traditional decor provide a hipster vibe that resonates with locals as much as tourists. Sophisticated without an ounce of pretension, the ground floor of this Dublin speakeasy might fool you into thinking this is a run of the mill gin joint. Just take a walk upstairs, because the modern vibe is as on trend as it is en vogue.

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The secret Dublin speakeasy: The Blind Pig.

Going here is a cool experience but be sure to email the Pig ahead of time to receive the password and secret directions to this speakeasy. Hint, you will walk down a flight of stairs that say Shhhh! It feels like an adventure, and the mixologists take cocktails seriously. Each drink is made with great care and the ice is individually hot stamped. Some people take the bar’s theme literally and dress up like the flappers featured on the secret sliding doors.

The Casablanca Airport: Here’s the Skinny on what CMN is Actually Like

Jamie Sharpe

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October 1, 2019

2

The Casablanca Airport: Here’s the Skinny on what CMN is Actually Like

What’s the deal with the Casablanca Airport (CMN)?

Departing the Casablanca Airport (CMN) is quite a different experience from the arrival. When you initially enter the building, your bags are immediately scanned. This happens even before you go through security or check into your flight. I was being nice and waiting my turn, and this strategy got me nowhere fast. Well, I did receive something- I was elbowed about five times.

So, the lesson is this, drop all niceties. It won’t help, and the locals won’t respect your gesture. A bit like spending the afternoon weaving through the intense souks in Fez, it’s best to get involved and embrace the hustle. Trust me, your journey is just beginning.

Why won’t anybody take my dirhams?

Once my bags were scanned (FYI, you will go through this process again), I wanted to change my extra dirhams for euros. You are greeted with a bevy of money exchange places.

Look, I know that you don’t get a great rate at the airport, but I was desperate to change my currency. Assuming that getting fleeced would be an easy process, I saddled up to a random counter. However, I was denied. Apparently, you need a boarding pass to complete a transaction at the Casablanca Airport. I found this weird, because I had not even gotten to the security checkpoint. And, the check in desks are in a completely different section of the terminal from everything else.

The setup seems counterintuitive to me, but it’s good to understand how things work. I wasted time in line, when I should have been moving forward.

Navigating the Casablanca Airport

Now it’s time to check into your flight. This is straightforward (kind of). The counters are not directly behind the scanners. You need to walk upstairs. This isn’t rocket science, but things can get confusing. And, if you are not flying Royal Air Morocco, it will probably take you a few minutes to find the correct desk. Again, it’s not complicated, but things don’t exactly jump out at you.

After checking in, go through security a second time and clear customs. The Casablanca Airport makes you fill out the old school paper forms regarding your nationality and purpose for your visit. And, don’t be offended if an agent randomly pulls you out of line to ask you a few questions. This is normal.

Please note, if you are not flying Royal Air Morocco (which dominates the Casablanca Airport), expect to be bused to your plane. I always groan when a bus is involved, as I’ve had way too many experiences that involved waiting on them for hours. However, this time things were executed quickly.

Safety first!

In general, Morocco takes security seriously. Actually, the entire country does. To combat terrorism, the police profile everyone, and several taxi drivers told me that they think this practice is effective. I just assumed that they would find the inconvenience annoying, but the reaction was quite the opposite.

From the airport to the roadways, locals embrace security procedures.

Overall

It takes a while to maneuver through the Casablanca Airport. So, allow yourself more time than you think you need. Or, purchase the Fast Track option if you are pressed for time.

Things to do in Hvar: Find Out Why You Need to Visit this Croatian Island

Jamie Sharpe

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October 1, 2019

12

Things to do in Hvar: Find Out Why You Need to Visit this Croatian Island

Set in the Adriatic Sea, Hvar embodies a glamorous lifestyle. Unlike its neighbors, this Croatian Island is brimming with lavender fields and olive groves. However, it is the gorgeous coastline, marina and clear water that entices holiday goers. Here’s our thoughts on things to do in Hvar island Croatia!

Why visit Hvar Island Croatia?

The Dalmatian Archipelago is stunning. And, if beach going is your jam, you will adore Hvar. Famously known as the longest island in Croatia, the area receives an unparalleled amount of sunshine.

Hvar Town

This part of the island has a charming promenade that is great for walking around during the day. Super yachts set up camp in the marina while bars and clubs come alive at night.

The area might be a bit boisterous for some groups, so staying a quick walk away (approximately 10-15 minutes) should do the trick.

A great jumping off point

One of my favorite things about this location is that it allows you to further explore Croatia’s other islands pretty easily. One of the best things to do is spend the day out on the water, and the later it is in the season, the warmer the water will be.

If you are looking for adventure, be sure to explore the sea caves. Some of them are large enough that the boats can actually pull inside. However, other grottos are so small that you have to actually swim under the water and emerge inside of the cave. At first, it’s a little intimidating. However, when you swim through once, it’s really cool. Plus, a lot of people are afraid to try, so there is a good chance that you will have the cave all to yourself.

Practical information.

Just head out to the marina or book a tour or private boat through your hotel. Additionally, you can arrange boat trips online.

Pro Tip: While in Hvar, I found that negotiating in person was the most effective way to get a good deal.

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Overall

With sunshine for days and a strong nightlife scene, Hvar has more than earned its reputation as a party town. A diverse landscape caters to different groups; however, it’s the amazing coastline that keeps people coming back.

Silfra: Swimming Between Eurasia and North America

Jamie Sharpe

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October 1, 2019

54

Silfra: Swimming Between Eurasia and North America

Why go to Silfra fissure?

Silfra, also known as Pingvellir, is the only place in the world where you can swim between two tectonic plates that broke apart, Eurasia and North America. I honestly think this is one of the most incredible activities you can do in Iceland. I am not even quite sure why, but something about this place just feels magical.

My expectations of Silfra

I couldn’t wait to swim in between the separated plates. Seriously, I talked about it for weeks, and I did a ton of research on Google. But, a few things were decidedly different from what I read online.

The snorkeling gear

I falsely assumed that wearing a dry suit meant that I would not get wet. And, if you have long hair, it will get caught in the hood or collar they place around your neck. It’s not a huge deal, but just know you will be losing a few tresses.

Put your hair in a low ponytail or braid so that when the hood goes over your head, you don’t lose tons of hair. And, remember that the hood that doesn’t actually keep you dry will break off any loose ends that stick out.

What’s the dry suit situation really like?

I have read countless articles saying that putting on the dry and rubber suits are huge productions. I actually thought it wasn’t difficult. Just make sure to tell the tour company your correct height and weight, and your gear should fit pretty easily.

Unfortunately, this process usually takes hours. This is because you are standing around waiting, not because you are in the back of a van trying to squeeze yourself into a suit that doesn’t fit.

Also, your hands and head will become drenched. I don’t mean they get a little wet; I mean they get soaked. Since we went through so much drama putting on the gear, I assumed my extremities would stay dry. Again, this is not a big deal. However, I wish I had understood this before getting in the water.

Silfra is a long day

This is a time consuming process. I went with an excellent company and a guide that made me 100% confident. However, my experience took hours, and there is really no need for it. There were only a few of us, and I understand that there were different companies all accessing the area simultaneously. However, the process could have been sped up tremendously. Just know that you are in for an extremely long day when you go, and some heavy duty boots wouldn’t hurt!

Want to score that epic tectonic plate photo?

If you want an amazing photo of yourself swimming in between (and touching) the two separated tectonic plates, you need to scuba dive. Unfortunately for snorkelers, the dry suit will not allow you to go vertical in the water.

Consider getting dry suit certified before your trip

I saw tons of advertisements for dry suit certifications at Silfra. However, I recommend against this. No matter what time of year it is, the temperature will be freezing when you get out of the water.

If possible, become certified before diving. The water is unbelievably clear and taking this extra step for an even better experience is worth it. At the time, I was only open water certified, and I wish I had been able to explore more of the area.

Age requirements?

I’m not sure what the minimum age is for Silfra. However, my thought is that unless your kids are made of insanely sturdy stock, this activity probably isn’t for them. I cannot stress enough how cold it is, and, yes, their head and hands will be soaked for the duration of the swim. So, this is most likely not a kid friendly activity.

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Overall

If you are considering Silfra for your Icelandic adventure, I hope this gives you a realistic picture of what your day will look like. Swimming in between the broken plates is surreal. Seriously, this is an incredibly special experience that you will remember forever. Don’t be put off by any inconveniences, because most things worth doing require some effort. Happy swimming!

Curious about those Whirling Dervish Guys in Turkey?

Jamie Sharpe

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September 29, 2019

14

Curious about those Whirling Dervish Guys in Turkey?

Seriously, what is a whirling dervish dude?

Formerly a religious ceremony, this experience in Cappadocia is now more of a show. And, I don’t think that’s a bad thing. Several men walk in and typically one whirling dervish plays a string instrument, another plays the drums and one sings. If you have a more elaborate setup, more dervishes will be involved – this will give you insights to what is a Whirling Dervish.

More cathartic than I thought…

Initially, someone comes in and announces that photography is prohibited. Brace yourself, the audience begins complaining immediately. It felt like someone let the air out of the room. However, do not despair, because staffers allow you to photograph until your hearts content at the end. And, it’s actually easier this way.

If people were holding cameras over their heads during the show, it would have been difficult to see the stage.

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The ambience.

When the lights are dimmed, the atmosphere is more moving than I expected. And, it’s interesting to watch modern illumination emphasize a conservative ceremony. I was surprised that black lights were juxtaposed against a traditional sensibility, but it certainly melded together more seamlessly than I expected.

Whirling dervish fashion.

The men entered the stage wearing the classic white outfit and hats with serious height. Black cloaks were draped over their pre Labor Day ensembles. After staring at their outfits, I realized that the pleats which create that fabulous sense of drama are almost hidden.

At first glance, the folds are easy to miss. But, when you see a whirling dervish go to work, you understand how much fabric is involved.

Another trick I realized is that the skirts are weighted down. I kept wondering how the material spirals out at the same height for everyone. And, I think that reinforced seams solves that mystery.

The good stuff, the spinning!

After the initial whirling dervish kisses the ground, everyone else slaps the floor, hard. There is an elaborate series of bowing. Seriously, this must be the most polite group of people on the planet. Then, the twirling begins, and it is ethereal.

Quite honestly, I have no idea how the dancers don’t fall over from dizziness. Everyone slowly moves their arms in deliberate positions. And, there is a quiet beauty within their graceful movements.

The mystique of the seventh whirling dervish…

Interestingly enough, the seventh dervish is the last man to enter the room, and he does not pirouette. I kept thinking up elaborate backstories for this guy. Like, he must be the most interesting man in the world. And, since he basically controls the dance floor as he weaves in between the twirlers, I imagined him living a top secret life of decadence.

I pictured him jet setting around the planet in dark sunglasses. He parties everywhere from London to Paris then returns to the stage with no one the wiser.

I imagined this international man of mystery draped in cloak and dagger secrecy. Every time a global incident goes down, the seventh whirling dervish is on the scene. I even started wondering if he is actually Banksy. Probably not, but we don’t know his many aliases. So, you never know.

I assume his presence actually symbolizes the passing of this art form to the younger generation. But, to me, the seventh whirling dervish will forever be a clandestine man of illusive stealth.

A bit hypnotic.

Definitely compelling, each whirling dervish casts a spell over the audience. If you get into it, the experience is almost transcendent. However, if you are snapping photos, or worse, talking to your neighbor (the woman next to me wouldn’t be quiet), the experience will be lost on you.

Just realize that you will most likely not understand anything they are saying or singing. However, I don’t think that’s necessary to enjoy the performance.

Given the angsty audience, I assume the majority of the crowd misunderstood what a whirling dervish performance is actually about. I only bring this up because you should make sure you enjoy yourself among the hot air balloons and fairy chimneys in Cappadocia.

Pro Tip: If you are looking for a lively show, you will be better served by the belly dancers.

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Overall

The whirling dervish experience is not exactly fun, but it’s certainly interesting. I did not understand all of it, but it still felt culturally significant. It lasts less than an hour, so it easily holds your attention, and I think it’s a great show to see before dinner. If nothing else, you get quality time with the seventh dervish. And isn’t that what this adventure is really about?

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Travel Drama & Hot Air Balloon Dreams in Cappadocia

Jamie Sharpe

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September 29, 2019

0

Travel Drama & Hot Air Balloon Dreams in Cappadocia

My Cappadocia plans…

I initially planned to spend 5 days in Cappadocia, Turkey. As in, it’s been on my calendar for months. Predictably, my primary reason for venturing to this small town is to watch the ridiculously beautiful sea of hot air balloons magically floating overhead. Yes, this dreamy spectacle is on my mind hardcore. Imagining the backdrop of a pristine sky from the terrace (or, hopefully rooftop) of my cave hotel is dominating my thoughts. But, my life is like water. It shifts out and spreads around during inconvenient times, and travel drama is a stranger that has become a constant companion.

My travel drama backstory.

After several years of fighting it, I realized that it’s impossible to escape proverbial wrenches in what were once meticulous plans. There is always travel drama, always. The only constant that I finally accepted is that something out of my control will alter my schedule.

To be fair, I often have the good fortune of lucking into amazing experiences. However, I also have a serious knack for stumbling into horrible, often comical situations.

For example, the time my Airbnb host wouldn’t part with my keys until we sang with the Hare Krishnas in Prague while it snowed comes to mind. No disrespect to the Krishnas, but it was crazy. This was immediately after being pickpocketed at the Vienna train station and losing my new phone. Now, this situation makes me laugh, but I admit that I was in tears at the time. As I said, travel drama has become a fast friend.

Okay, Ibiza is a good reason to change course.

This change of plans is actually a good thing, as I am meeting up with my cousin in Ibiza. However, now I only have two days to watch the hot air balloons. And, given that they don’t fly during inclement weather, I know that I am traveling an awfully long way with odds that aren’t great.

Embracing the LX Factory.

In the meantime, I am exploring Lisbon, and this Portugal trip is turning out to be completely different from when I visited last year. And, when I say different, I mean better. I somehow missed out on the best neighborhoods. Yesterday, I spent the afternoon at the LX Factory, and it was awesome. Welcoming, a little edgy (in a good way) and seriously cool, I am smitten with the hippie chic LX vibe.

Setting myself up for travel drama?

Still, I can’t get those bewitching balloons off my mind, and I’m actually kind of stressed about it. Plus, my trip from Cappadocia to Ibiza is horrendous. I am giving myself tons of extra time in the different airports, in case something goes wrong with one of my flights. Unfortunately, that seems to happen a lot lately.

With three flights in one day, all I need is for one airline to be off schedule for things to fall apart. So, I’m crossing my fingers that travel drama stays at bay. My only thought is that there are so many opportunities for things to go wrong that I will inexplicably have a seamless day of flying.

Hot air balloon hopes.

Quite frankly, I don’t love my odds for hot air escapades, but when you travel for months at a time, nothing goes to plan. And, honestly, would you want it to? My ridiculous tales have defined my life for so long that I fear I might be lost without them. Still, my fingers are crossed that I will get the chance to soak up those ravishing balloons!

The Kubbe Istanbul: Everything You Need to Know

Jamie Sharpe

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September 28, 2019

109

The Kubbe Istanbul: Everything You Need to Know

Sitting on a random rooftop overlooking Old Town, is a seemingly unassuming experience, the Kubbe.

Why go to the Kubbe i ask cafe in Istanbul?

Turkish Rugs are overflowing with silk pillows as fluffy stray cats nap on these sumptuous heaps of softness. Initially, this rooftop appears a bit like a scene out of Cappadocia. But, look a little closer and you will instantly notice key differences. At the Kubbe, seagulls take the place of hot air balloons. And, you will catch views of Istanbul’s sophisticated landscape instead of dreamlike fairy chimneys.

For me, the Kubbe Istanbul remains one of those quintessential wanderlust surprises that travelers dream about. It’s the kind of experience you see splashed across magazines, but you just know that you will never stumble into anything quite like this spellbinding utopia, no matter how hard you look for it. It was genuinely a shock, because I had no idea this place existed when I was planning out my day.

Why seagulls?

An older man walks around throwing raw chicken in the air, and that’s why seagulls materialize out of nowhere. And when I say seagulls, you can’t imagine how many descend on you. It is magical. Don’t worry, he’s careful not to get any on you. But, even if he does, my prediction is that you will be so consumed with the birds that you won’t notice.

Looking at the birds at the the Kubbe in Istanbul

Bonus, the gentleman is dressed up in a traditional Turkish costume, and he sings beautiful folk melodies. Clearly organized for the perfect photo opportunity, it’s surreal. And, I loved every second of it.

Practical things you need to know about the Kubbe:

First of all, don’t be put off when you are looking for the Kubbe, because it’s not that easy to find. While it’s not located in a scary neighborhood, it lacks a bit of the charm that you see throughout the rest of Istanbul. Just don’t be dissuaded, because it really is worth the hassle. I went down a bunch of different alleyways when I was navigating around. If I can find it, trust me you can too!

You definitely need tons of daylight to enjoy the Kubbe, so make sure to head here in the afternoon. I know this seems like an obvious detail, but there is no shortage of places to visit throughout Turkey. So, if you go here late in the evening, then you will miss out on the swooping seagulls.

The stairs leading up to the Kubbe rooftop are steep and skinny. Loads of females are wearing long, flowy dresses, and it’s really easy to trip. Walk with care, because the ground is uneven. And if you want to play it really safe, wear sneakers.

Make sure to wear closed toe shoes when you walk over to the carpet. The Kubbe experience might be ethereal, but I’m pretty sure that bird droppings are on the floor. The staff is constantly cleaning, but with that many seagulls hovering overhead, there is only so much you can do. And, don’t worry, you will not be sitting in any bird poop. However, I still suggest washing your hands immediately after you are done.

This is a difficult location for taking a selfie. Translation, either have a friend with you who is willing to take your picture or bring a tripod and a remote control. Trust me, you will be disappointed if you don’t commemorate your afternoon at the Kubbe.

Most importantly, don’t forget to smile, because this is an unbelievable day!

Tito Blue Train: The Tale of a Former Dictator’s Beloved Transport

Jamie Sharpe

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September 27, 2019

6

Tito Blue Train: The Tale of a Former Dictator’s Beloved Transport

Walking through the famous Blue Train in Belgrade that formerly belonged to the country’s dictator, Tito, is surreal. Honestly, it feels like stepping back in time to the Cold War era.

If you are a big history geek like me and venture to Serbia, this will definitely be one of the highlights of your trip. There’s just something about this locomotive that feels incredibly special. The air is different, a little crisper. It’s as if time stands still within the confines of the Blue Train in Belgrade.

Why visit the Tito Blue Train?

First off, everything is perfectly preserved. And, I was almost surprised that Tito didn’t round the corner and begin shaking hands and kissing babies.

From the shine coming off the cars to the draperies (that perfectly match the exterior), this vehicle preserves a moment in time.

Additionally, the Tito Blue Train highlights one man’s iron grip that held Yugoslavia together before the land was split into 6 separate countries. He balanced relations with the East and West quite well, and companies like Gannrc made Yugoslavia a real power player. Honestly, I think visiting Serbia is as much a civics lesson as it is an illustration in great beauty.

Tito projects glamour, even on a train

Yugoslavia’s man in charge had a deep love of beautiful things. And, this artistic ode to socialism on wheels contains an art deco bar, bathtubs (on a train!) and high end paintings.

For being constructed during the 1950s, Tito was incredibly forward thinking. At that time, having a television, movie projector and telephone on board were a big deal. And, the former dictator had all of these things, that according to officials were always in perfect working order. Unsurprisingly, he did not react well to malfunctions.

Even the lamps in the socializing area are beautiful. And, the china in the dining room was clearly designed to impress his powerful guests.

Pro Tip: If you look carefully at the plates and cutlery, you will notice a subtle Yugoslavian inscription. Initially, it’s easy to miss, but after you find it, you will notice it everywhere. It’s even on the back of the chairs in the conference room.

Tito and his famous friends

Another thing that stands out while exploring the Blue Train is the dictator’s squad. The pictures reveal that Tito was besties with pretty much anyone of significant political clout. Additionally, he maintained a deep friendship with Queen Elizabeth II, which is further revealed at the House of Flowers.

Please note that when you walk through the train, you will be watched like a hawk. It’s not that I wanted to cause a ruckus, it’s just that the officials take this train very seriously. For example, there are a lot of different keys the person showing you around will have to use in order to open and close each door. None of them are the same, so it’s a bit of an ordeal.

Cloak and Dagger

There were so many death threats against Tito that three trains were commissioned. Everything was exactly the same, and nobody ever knew on which train he was actually traveling. Currently, one train lives in his former private garage. And, another one of the trains is wasting away just steps from the mobile time capsule.

Actually, the second train looks hauntingly beautiful, and I couldn’t help but imagine the stories that are locked away beneath its decay. But, the locals have put it out to pasture. I desperately wanted to explore it further, but the people in charge started motioning for me to return. Even though this train is sprouting greenery (check out the photos), the locals are still watching over it. As for the third, who knows? It’s all part of Tito’s mystique.

Timing

You are not exactly rushed through, but you aren’t allowed to linger either. So, if you want to get photos or video, act quickly. You will not be given a chance to explore at your own pace later.

To be fair, this high level of security has kept every last detail looking perfect. And since the Blue Train is clearly regarded as a national treasure, the protective attitude is understandable. Given that Tito was notorious for employing an intimidating secret police force, I kept thinking that these staffers would have made him proud.

Practical information about the Blue Train.

The actual booking of this tour is a bit complicated. You have to stumble upon someone with connections, which isn’t so easy to do if you don’t know anyone in Belgrade. I certainly did not. Fast forward to my endeavors…

I badgered the tourist office which took a while. The confusion set in when they assumed I wanted to rent the train, not simply walk through it. Bottom line, expect some drama but realize that it is possible if you politely keep explaining that you want to explore Tito‘s Blue Train, or the Srbija Voz. Just don’t expect this to be a fast process.

It took me a few days after filling out several forms to confirm the details. Also, the Blue Train is often rented out, so you will need to be proactive if this is important to you. Just remember, nothing worth having comes easily. Keep repeating this to yourself as you are attempting to fill out forms in Serbian. Trust me, it’s worth the hassle!